People often ask me why I keep going back to Isla Mujeres year after year.
“Is it like Playa del Carmen?” – No
“Is it like Tulum?” – No
“Is it like Isla Holbox?” – No
“Is it like Cancun?” – You’re kidding, right?
It’s not even like “what Isla Mujeres used to be”, but I still love it.
Isla Mujeres is easy to get to – a short ferry ride from Cancun, but a world away. There are no chain restaurants or bars. Most hotels are small and full of character. The local population is friendly, and you always feel safe. And then there’s the ocean – almost swimming-pool clear at the beach, turning turquoise and then navy blue as it gets deeper.
It has just a little bit of the nightlife that you can find in Playa del Carmen and many of the laid-back bohemian qualities of Isla Holbox. It’s been “a thing” for devotees of the island long before Tulum took off as the “it place”. Luckily, it has been able to avoid the over-tourism and rapid development found everywhere else along the Mayan Riviera. You will actually find many buildings either abandoned or in various states of disrepair, but I think that somewhat adds to the appeal of the place. It has old-world charm, Mexican culture and history, and a relaxed vibe that is hard to find in most resort areas.
Getting to the Island
Cancun (CUN) is quite possibly the easiest airport in Mexico to get to from the US or Europe with multiple daily direct or nonstop flights from most major cities. Once you arrive and clear customs, you need to make your way to the Ultramar ferry terminal in Puerto Juarez, just north of downtown Cancun. Depending on traffic, it should be about a 30-minute trip from the airport.
I recommend pre-booking a car service from the airport to the ferry terminal unless you particularly like to deal with finding a legit taxicab at a Mexican Airport – not this guy! There is something very comforting about having someone waiting for you when you arrive who knows exactly where to take you without an explanation. Most companies will price the transfer roundtrip so you can have a guaranteed pick-up on the return trip back to the airport from the ferry terminal. I have used USA Transfers, Lomas, and Amstar, but there are many others to choose from.
Once you arrive at the Ultramar ferry terminal, purchase a roundtrip ticket to Isla Mujeres for about $20 USD per person. Just remember to hold on to that return ticket! Reservations are not available – you just get in line and board the next boat. Porters are available for those of you who pack heavy. Departures are every 30 minutes on the hour and half-hour from 6:30am until 10:00pm from Puerto Juarez and from 7:00am until 11:00pm from Isla Mujeres. You can also pre-purchase tickets online from Ultramar’s website.
When you get to the port at Isla Mujeres, you have a couple of options depending on where your hotel is located. If you are staying in Centro or North Beach, it may be easiest to walk (unless you’ve overpacked and have too much luggage). Otherwise, taxis are available and plentiful just outside the terminal building on the left. There are also many services close by renting golf carts. It would be wise to check with your hotel on what they recommend.
The Lay Of The Land
Isla Mujeres is just over 4 miles long and less than ½ mile wide at its widest point. You will land on the north end of the island which is home to the main “city” (Centro) and the most popular beach – North Beach, or “Playa Norte”. Here you will find a wide variety of accommodations along with most of the island’s restaurants, stores, bars, and shops. The town is completely walkable once you are there – it is only about 10 blocks from end-to-end and about 5 blocks from coast-to-coast. The main drag is Hildalgo Street which is 2-blocks in from the beach and ferry terminal.
In the middle part of the island, you will find the neighborhoods where most of the island’s residents live. It is also home to some great “off the beaten path” restaurants. Some of the island’s larger hotels are also located close to this area.
The south end of the island is home to Garrafon Park and Punta Sur with its small temple ruins, as well as many of the island’s larger homes.
There are no rental cars on the island. The only way to get around is by foot, taxi, golf cart, or scooter. For stays of a couple of days or more, I would recommend renting a golf cart or scooter for at least a day to get out and explore the island. There are multiple rental services on the island and most hotels and inns can arrange for one on your behalf.
Accommodations
Isla Mujeres is full of interesting small hotels, inns, and B&Bs which are mostly located in or near the Centro district. This type of accommodation gives you the true “Isla Mujeres” experience with easy and walkable access to restaurants, public beaches, and the nightlife in town. There are also a couple of larger all-inclusive resorts if that’s your thing (it’s not mine) – Privileges Aluxes on North Beach and Isla Mujeres Palace located mid-island. Lastly, there is a wide variety of condos and vacation rentals scattered all over the island, including the famous seashell house – Casa Caracol.
Here’s a sampling of places I’ve stayed:
Casa De Los Suenos – One of the few hotels located on the quieter south end of the island, which some may find a bit remote. This small boutique hotel has just 10 rooms full of Mexican character which offer stunning views over to Cancun and the nightly sunsets.
Ixchel Beach Hotel – Probably the best-located hotel on North Beach. It is comprised of two separate towers of individually owned condo units that are rented out as a hotel. Their accommodations vary from standard hotel rooms to 1, 2, and 3-bedroom units.
Playa Arena – You have to know where you going to find this hotel. It is hidden from the street, reached via a long driveway behind the Ixchel Beach Hotel, and sits directly on a prime patch of North Beach. The rooms are large but pretty basic and sparsely furnished. It is one of the newer properties on the island.
Secreto – This small boutique property is tucked away behind the island’s “convention center”. It sits directly on the water, but you will spend your time by the beautiful pool rather than the small rocky patch of beach.
Zoetry Villa Rolandi – This is the nicest hotel on the island, hands down. It was built by an Italian/Swiss family as an independent property and is now affiliated with Zoetry Resorts, part of the AMResorts Collection. It has just 35 oceanfront suites, a Thalasso Spa, and excellent food and beverage offerings. Isla Mujeres at its fanciest!
Don’t forget to check out my recommendations on how to choose the perfect hotel here.
Restaurants & Bars
You can’t go hungry on Isla Mujeres. If you do, it is your own damn fault. There are probably close to 100 restaurants on this small island, and that doesn’t even include the street vendors (which are delicious!). For a complete listing of establishments, check out the Isla Mujeres website. Oh, and one more thing…. cash is still king on Isla Mujeres. Many restaurants and even some bars are “cash only”. Be sure to check before you run up a tab!
The following is a short list of places I’ve been known to frequent during my visits:
Buho’s Beach Bar – There’s no better way to end the day than by sitting on a swing with your feet in the sand and a cold cerveza in your hand under a huge palapa. Right in the middle of North Beach.
El Patio – Located on Hidalgo in the center of town, this bar has a wonderful interior courtyard bar and a rooftop live music venue.
El Varadero – The first time I visited this waterfront Cuban restaurant, I would have thought I was at the wrong place if not for the sign. The property looks almost derelict from the street, but you follow the sandy walkway and find this little gem perched right over the water. You can actually arrive by boat if you have one.
Green Verde – This tiny restaurant is located mid-island and serves up great food, including some darn good mole.
The Joint – An open-air Reggae bar & grill in Punta Sur, on the road to Garrafon. It is a great place to spend an afternoon.
La Cazuela M&J – I ran across this breakfast place by mere accident and was drawn in by some fellow tourists on the patio who said “you’ve got to try this” while I was reading the menu posted outside. The specialty of the house is a “Cazuela” which is something like a baked cheesy omelet offered with a variety of ingredients and eaten tortillas or toast. I ate breakfast here twice during a 5-day trip.
Lolo Lorena – Lolo offers cooking classes and special dinners for a select few from her small B&B located mid-island. You never know what she is going to make or what nights she will be cooking, but it is entertaining and delicious if you are lucky enough to get a reservation.
Olivia – This is my favorite restaurant on the island, and I eat here on every trip. It is run by an Israeli couple who offer a delicious Mediterranean menu in a beautiful back garden.
Soggy Peso – I knew I loved this place when I saw the sign on my way out saying, “We hope you have been overserved”. The Soggy Peso is located on the marina, perched over the water in the backyard of a small B&B of the same name.
The Bottom Line – Isla Mujeres isn’t for everyone, but that’s a good thing in my book.
