Many years ago, I saw an article on the Isle of Sark in a prominent travel magazine. It was the kind of magazine I used to read cover-to-cover and fantasize about all the wonderful places I would go someday.
The story included photos of this tiny island in the English Channel that was described as “almost lost in time”. There are no cars allowed – transportation options are limited to bicycles, tractors, and horse-drawn carriages. The only way the island can be reached is by boat. The stunning landscape consisted of green pastures and dramatic cliffs. As a self-professed Anglophile, history buff, and one who appreciates sparsely populated areas, I was hooked. I knew I had to go there.
I sent off for a paper brochure (remember those?) from the local tourist office which I have kept in a “places I want to go” file ever since. And while I’ve spent my adult life traveling to more faraway places than I could have ever dreamed of, I never quite made it to Sark.
Until a couple of years ago.
I have traveled all over England, Scotland, and Wales and spent more long weekends in London than I can count. It was time to visit the Channel Islands. To build a trip around Sark, I decided to add on some time in the Peak District beforehand and a weekend in London afterward. Direct flights on Aurigny Airlines to Guernsey, the gateway to Sark, were available from both Manchester and Gatwick.
After a couple of nights in St Peters Port (Guernsey), I was finally ready to board a Sark Shipping Company ferry for my 55-minute ride to Sark.
The arrival is as dramatic as the island itself. We first passed Brecqhou with its mock-Gothic Castle. It is the British billionaire Barclay Brothers’ private isle separated from Sark by a rough, narrow channel. The boat then made its way slowly around the rugged north end of the island before reaching one of the few navigable harbors on Sark.
While porters unloaded cargo and luggage (which are taken directly to the various island accommodations), I started to make my way up a long hill to the only “village” on the island. The arrival options are either walking on a shaded pathway through the woods (my choice) or riding on a tractor-pulled carriage.
At the top, you reach Harbour Hill, where you truly arrive on Sark. Horse-drawn carriages await to take tourists on island tours and visitors to their accommodations.
One of the first buildings I saw was the HSBC bank, located in a small stone cottage. Its hours are posted as “930am-1230pm and 130pm-300pm” Monday through Friday. That makes for about a 22-hour workweek. I love this place!
I continued down the one road through town (aptly called The Avenue), passing a couple of small shops, a bike rental store, and a few restaurants. At the end of the street, I stopped in at the Sark Visitor Center located in another old stone cottage and picked up some maps and activity brochures.
A short distance further down the same road I came to the cutoff to my home for the next 4 days – The Stocks Hotel. The path leads through a wooded area and a green pasture before arriving at the historic country house.
After settling into my room, I made it down to the outdoor terrace by the heated pool and ordered up a Pimm’s Cup.
I had finally made it to Sark.
The Lay Of The Land
Sark lies 7 miles east of Guernsey and about 25 miles off the coast of France. The island is 3 miles long and 1.5 miles wide at its broadest point and is essentially a plateau rising to 375 feet above the scenic coast. It consists of two main components: Great Sark and Little Sark. The two are connected by La Coupée, a long and very narrow isthmus of land.
The only town is located right in the middle of Great Sark and consists of just a couple of streets. Here you’ll find the post office, a few shops and eateries, the bank, and the island’s grocery store. It is also the arrival and departure point for all visitors to the island.
Things To See & Do
Sark is famous for its natural beauty and scenic coastal walks. You can explore the entire island by foot, rent a bike to take things in a little quicker, or let someone else take the reins on a leisurely horse and carriage tour.
For the more active and adventurous there are kayaking, coasteering, and coastal boat trips. The island is also renowned for its dark skies, offering some fantastic stargazing opportunities in the evening.
There are many ways to explore the Island with many interesting stops en-route, from the famous gardens to quirky cafes and fine restaurants.
The Night Skies – In 2011, Sark gained the distinction of being awarded recognition by the International Dark-Sky Association for its exceptional quality of unpolluted darkness and became the first functioning island community to gain this title. The island has no public street lighting and many residents and businesses have made alterations to ensure as little light as possible is spilled upwards, creating light pollution.
La Coupee – Just crossing this narrow isthmus is an adventure, whether by foot or carriage. The roadway is only 9 feet wide and steeply drops about 260 feet on both sides. It was just a dirt path until 1945 when the current cement roadway was built by German prisoners of war.
La Seigneurie Gardens – La Seigneurie is the traditional residence of the Seigneur of Sark. Set within the grounds of the 17th-century manor, La Seigneurie Gardens are considered one of the finest in the Channel Islands. Many unusual half-hardy plants thrive within the stone-walled garden, ensuring a colorful display from spring through to autumn.
Sark Henge – A ring of stones was erected to mark 450 years since Queen Elizabeth I granted Sark to the Seigneur of St Ouen on 6th August 1565. Their alignment is to local landmarks and to the course of the sun.
The Window in the Rock – The window in the rock was cut on the instructions of a Victorian Cleric to give a view of Saignie Bay. It is reached via a shady trail on the west side of the island, behind La Seigneurie.
Bike Hire – If you don’t fancy walking everywhere on the island, renting a bike for a day or the duration of your stay is a great idea. Avenue Cycles is located on the main street and A to B Cycles is just a couple of blocks away.
Island Carriage Tours – The most typical way to explore Sark, particularly for day-trippers, is by horse and carriage. Various tours are available which will take you through the quaint narrow lanes of Sark to places of outstanding natural beauty.
Coasteering and Kayaking – Coasteering and Kayaking in Sark will take you to places that few people get to go. Steep cliffs dominate the coastline making any exploration along the coast epic.
Island Boat Trips – A little less adventurous but every bit as epic is seeing the entire island from the sea as you circumnavigate Sark by boat.
Accommodations
Although Sark’s economy depends heavily on tourism, there are surprisingly few options for accommodations as many visitors tend to be day-trippers. There are currently only three hotels to choose from, although there are many small guesthouses, B&B’s, and self-catering accommodations.
The Stocks Hotel – The Stocks Hotel has been operating as a hotel since 1895, in a farmhouse that dates back to 1741. This historic inn offers 23 rooms and suites spread between the Main House, the adjacent Dower House cottage, and the Hayloft behind the hotel. Facilities include an outdoor solar-heated swimming pool, a small workout room, the stylish Main Dining Room, the Poolside Bistro & Bar, and the cozy “Smugglers Bar” which is home to the most impressive collection of whiskeys in the Channel Islands.
La Moinerie – In the sixth century Sark was settled by St. Magloire, Sark’s patron saint, who established a monastery on part of the site of the current La Moinerie Hotel. The hotel’s name alludes to its origins, being the middle-French word for a monastery. Located near the center of the island by La Seigneurie, the hotel offers four rooms in the traditional farmhouse building as well as nine additional guest lodges that can accommodate up to 4 people each.
La Sablonnerie – The only hotel located on Little Sark, La Sablonnerie has been operating since 1948 in a farmhouse that is almost 400 years old. They offer 22 rooms and are known as much for their fine restaurant as they are for accommodations.
And yes, I’m already planning a return visit to Sark.
